The only Morgan I have ever driven was a 4/4, in bright red, the proper colour would be Signal Red (Colour Code NF8002), this model will be done in Ford Radiant red,which is close enough to Signal red, the interior will be done in a light tan interior, the kit I'm using was bought off ebay, but was missing the clear parts when it came, but I kept the kit and managed to get another built up one to use as a donar car, but that one the front screen was a mess, but I did get the top up option which was as new, so this model will be built with the roof in the up position.
For most of my builds I use good old Cellulose paints, but for tis build I decided I would give automotive Acrylics a go, coverage was good and the shine right out of the airbrush was very good.
I have left the bodyshell and bodyparts to dry out for a few days in a sealed plastic tub, which keeps the dust from settling onto the paintwork, now the smell has gone, the paint has gassed out, I should be able to start the polishing process very soon.
The seats are molded in two parts, the seat bucket and the back panel, although the back of the seat won't really been seen once the model is built, I still went to the trouble of making the join as good as I could, and has now had a small coat of Squadron white putty, I will leave this to dry out overnight before sanding smooth.
Photo Above - Seat after being sanded smooth.
(Photo's above & Below)Bodyshell polished, for this I used Meguires NXT tech wax on a microfibre cloth, no need for the minicraft drill and polishing mop on this build, as the paint was pretty shiney when it came out of the spraybooth.
(Photo on left) - Chassis built and painted satin black, (Photo on right) - Interior painted Tamiya XF-59 Desert yellow.
I let the interior parts and body dry out for a while, then masked them off and painted the parts that needed to be painted in Tamiya X-18 satin black, photo on the left show the body masked off ready for the bulkhead to be painted, photo on the right shows the interior finished after being painted satin black on the outside.
Bulkhead and inner wings after painting, (Below) on the left show the small parts airbrushed in Semi glass black, photo on the left show the engine,gearbox painted semi gloss black, and the seats and dash painted Tamiya XF-58 desert yellow
Photo's above :- Engine & gearbox installed into chassis, the inlet manifold was stripped of the chrome it came in the kit with and airbrushed with Alclad aluminium, the pancake airfilter was also stripped off it chrome and repainted with Alclad chrome for a much more realistic finish, the brake master cyliner was airbushed with Alclad aluminium, then the fluid container was brush painted in flat white while the cap was painted satin black, the cooling fan was airbrushed in gloss yellow.ck, so the disc's were brush painted Plastikote chrome siler and the calipers were picked out using Tamiya X-31 Titanium gold.
Below - Hood masked up and painted with Tamiya X-18 semi gloss black
Above - Hood dried and masking tape removed, it still needs the window frames done in silver, I will use aluminium BMF for this, this is the first time I have masked up windows for spraying and I've very happy with the results I got, I used Tamiya masking tape and made sure I burnished down the edges so the paint didn't creep under the tape, although I did make sure I didn't put the paint on wet and in thick coats, I did it in light coats and put on about three thin coats though a 0.3mm fine needle airbush.
Another first for me is interior flocking, I have wanted to try this for many years but just never got round to it, I have read many articles in modelling magazines and on the internet how to do flocking, so I thought it was about time I gave it a go, I ordered the flocking off the internet and thought the Morgan was a good candidate to try out the technique.
There are different methods to fix the material on, some use paint, varnish or PVA (Wood) glue, I chose the PVA option, as this was my first time, PVA would clean up easier if I made any mistakes, although I didn't go down the route of wood glue, but instead I used Solvite border repair adhesive, meant for repairing rips in wallpaper and comes in handy tubes or tubs, and a plus point is that it comes pre- thinned ready to brush on, for applying the flocking fibres I used a container originally used to hold cocktail sticks as it had many small holes in the lid, ideal for the flocking process, for my first attempt I'm very happy with the results .....
Steering wheel, I originally painted it to match the seats, but thought it would look a little better if it was painted in a contrasting colour, so I decided the wheel would have a wooden rim and aluminium spokes, so I overpainted the original Tamiya XF-59 with clear orange to give a wood effect, the spokes were painted using Revell acrylic aluminium with the centre picked out in satin black.
Dashboard paint to simulate wood
The Dashboard was first painted in Tamiya XF-59 Desert yellow, left to dry then dry brushed with Tamiya XF-28 Dark Copper, then given a coat of Tamiya clear orange, the switches and the glovebox was done in satin black.
Interior tub fixed to Chassis
The gearstick, handbrake and pedals were fitted into the tub using 5 minute epoxy glue, the interior tub fixed to the chassis by tabs at the front of the tub and cut out by the rear axle, a few spring clamps were used to get the two parts to fit tightly together, the rear dampers were fitted after the parts had dried, a fiddly job, but easier than trying to do at the same time as fitting the interior tub to the chassis.
As this kit was bought off eBay incomplete, I didn't realize that the decal sheet was also missing, luckily a friend of mine come up with something that was suitable, they were slightly smaller than what the originals would have been, so the recess molded in the dash was painted matt black, so once the decals were added, you can't notice the size difference, once they had dried out some thinned out clear epoxy resin was added to replicate the gauge glass.
Dashboard fitted to bodyshell
Body & Chassis fitted together
Exhaust Manifold and small parts fitted into engine bay
Interior side trim painted
Under side of body painted matt black, bumper brackets and exhaust fitted
Wheels, Grill and Bonnet fitted
The chassis and body were a very good fit, so after a dry run it was fixed together using a slow setting two part epoxy glue, as the steering column and steering box is actually fitted to the inside of the body before fitting it to the chassis, it has to hook on the front steering rods, so I thought as slower setting glue was the better choice, once the glue was applied, the body was fitted and clamped and taped overnight until the glue had set up.
The front grill was a slightly fiddly job, but as I skipped the instructions and fitted the grill surround to the body before the body was painted, the surround should actually be fitted much later in the build, but fitting it before the body was painted just makes it look a bit cleaner, the wheels are simply push fitted onto the axles, as rubber polycaps were fitted inside the axles, so the wheels actually turn and so does the steering, the bonnet sides are again just clipped into place.
With the body nearly finished, it was time to do a bit of work to the convertible hood, the hood was masked up and airbrushed in semi gloss black acrylic as shown earlier in the build, but the side screens and front window needed the aluminium surrounds picking out in aluminium, this could have been done by masking up the black and airbrushed in matt aluminium acrylic, but as I had a sheet of aluminium BMF, this was the route I went down, although it does take a little longer and care has to be taken with a sharp scapel blade on the clear parts, as any scratches caused by the blade will show up when it's finished, don't try to do the trim in one piece, I do mine by using separate piece's, four for each of the side windows and one for the bottom trim on the front screen, the side pillars were done using one piece of BMF each.
Side trim done using aluminium Bare Metal Foil
Aluminium trim finished on convertible hood, at this stage it's only fitted temporary ...
I knew I was going to have problems with the headlamps, as I've mentioned previous in the build that when I bought this kit of eBay, the clear part sprue was missing, I was lucky to lay my hands on another Morgan that had been built up, this was stripped and used for parts, but although the headlamp bowls were supplied with the built up model, it was missing one of the headlamp lenses and the one that was there was fogged, possibly by the glue that was used, I could have used that one to make a mold and cast them up in clear resin, but that would have took time and would have put the build on hold, now on the real car, the headlamps were the pretty much standard Lucas 7 inch sealed beam unit that were also on a lot of British cars of the time, knowing I had some Tamiya Mini lights in the spares box, i thought I could get away with using them, but the bowls were slightly different and didn't look right, next I tried the Mini lenses on the Morgan bowls, to find they didn't fit, but a bit of time with a fine file got them to fit, they were fixed in place using 5 minute clear epoxy.
The inner door handles were fitted and the doors were fixed into place, again using 5 minute epoxy glue,
100% Finished !
The rear lamps were airbrushed in clear Tamiya acrylics, then the chome ring was added using Bare Metal Foil, a tricky job but just would look right without the chrome, the reflectors were part of the chrome parts sprue and the red part was simply brushed using Tamiya clear red.
The aluminium strip on the running board was added using aluminium Bare Metal Foil,
The sidelights on top of the front wing were also part of the chrome parts sprue, the bases were painted flat black and the lenses were picked out with a mix of Tamiya flat white and clear, the bonnet latches were also part of the chrome parts and were simply cut off the tree and touched up where they were cut off with a dab of chrome silver paint, the bonnet strap and buckle were supplied in the kit and simply pop's into cut out's in the bottom of the wings.