Scale Auto Replica's

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                              Airfix 1932 Chrysler Imperial

 I bought this model a few years ago off eBay, and apart from building the chassis and some of the body parts, it has sat in a plastic container for more years than I can remember, the reason I bought the kit in the first place was a trip down memory lane.

For years, in my younger modelling days I built only 1/32nd scale kits, mainly because I used to be into slot racing, and the model cars could go on the layout after I had built them, but slowly with work and college I didn't have time for slot racing, I hadn't long stated work at the age of 15, and took a trip into town (Birmingham) as there used to be a cracking model shop there, and there on the shelf was a "NEW" Airfix kit, the 1932 Chrysler Imperial, and in the bigger scale of 1/25th, so with my wage packet burning a hole in my pocket I bought it, so this was the first ever 1/25th scale kit I ever bought, I got it home and was shocked to see how big this thing was compared to the 1/32nd scale stuff that I had been building, the chassis is 8 and a half inches long !!

I built it, and hand painted it, but the guy in the bodyshop taught me how to thin enamel paint and how I could brush paint without getting brush marks, I did it in Airfix Oxford blue with a light blue body, and tan hood and interior, I was pretty happy with the results, but it didn't last long, as Mom went round like Willow the Wisp, and knocked it off my window sill, and come home to find it in pieces in a box, sadly it never got rebuilt.

The main reason this has been sitting in a container so long is that Ii couldn't decide on the colour as I didn't want to do it the same colour as I did all them years ago, and although I had looked though all the photo's on Google, I still couldn't decide, but over the weekend I was having a tidy and going through some of my paints, and come across some old BMC paints, Limeflower and Tundra Green, and to me, looked a perfect combination, so that's the reason in getting my arse into gear and getting a start on this on, I will let the paint dry off for a week before wet sanding and polishing it out, the interior will be done in different shades of tan.

 

 Parts Cleaned up ready for Painting

  

 Chassis built up and Body Parts Dry Fitted Together

 Body Panels Painted 

 

 

 Wheels Painted Body Colour

 

 Chassis Built and painted in Gloss Black Cellulose

 

Engine & Gearbox built and Primed.

 

 

 Engine painted using Createx Acrylic paints, thinned and Airbrushed

 

 Seats painted in Testors Model masters "Leather" enamel.

 The fabric roof was done using Humbrol # 110 thinned with lacquer thinners,

 Today (Friday 17th February)I managed to get back in the hobby room, as I wanted to get some airbrushing done, first was the engine, which on the real car was a turquoise blue with a red cylinder head, kind of a strange colour for an engine, but that's what I needed to replicate, the only colour I had that came close was some Createx "Airbrush Colour" acrylic, I was given a load of these a few years ago by a good friend, but never got to trying them, mainly because I had no thinners for them and some of them had dried out over the years in the bottle, but I managed to get hold of some Testors Acrylic thinners, that I'm pleased to say, worked very well in thinning them ready to airbrush.

next to be airbrushed was the front & rear seats,  I used a bottle of Testors Model Master "Leather" enamel, I've had this bottle sitting in my paint draw since 1994 and never had a need to use it, but it seemed just the right colour for this build, it was thinned using lacquer thinners to give it a shorter drying time, as I need to mask up the rear seat so the side panels and carpet can be painted, the carpet will be flocked after it has been painted.

The fabric hood was airbrushed in Humbrol # 110, again thinned with lacquer thinners, again to shorten the drying time.

 when I first built this kit 34 years ago I remember I ended up with wonky headlamps, as the headlamp bowls fix to arms molded into the radiator grill, and both being chrome, didn't glue very well back then, well things will be a bit different on this model, as it will not have wonky headlamps, or wonky anything, so before they get there Alclad I decided the headlamp bowls would be fixed to the radiator before any paint went near them, but I needed to make sure they lined up perfectly, now the front of the radiator has a slight angle to it, and the headlamps have to line up with the rear of the radiator, as this is the part that is plumb, so I had to figure a way to do this, I then came up with the idea of fixing the radiator to a block of wood, and as the base of the rad' goes past the front crossmember of the chassis, I had to raise the block it was fixed to slightly, I simply raised it on a block of balsa wood, fixed the headlamps with liquid cement and left them to dry with a metal set square holding the bowls perfectly square and perpendicular to the rear of the radiator ...

 

 

 Radiator test fitted on body

I don't know how I actually built this kit the first time around, but I couldn't have followed the instructions to the letter, I have been getting the chrome parts ready for there coat of Alclad and have been doing some dry fitting, had a quick look at the instructions ...

 and it seems that the windsheild frame needs to be glued to the bonnet ??? really ?? ur NO !!!

  

it goes in the body tub and is held in place by the interior tub, 
 
 
 

 

 Cylinder Head painted red, and engine block clearcoated

 

Interior painted 

 

 Engine and Gearbox painted and smaller parts fitted

 

 Front grille infill Panels painted and Fitted

 With most of the airbrushing finished, it was time to start putting some pieces together, with the wheels painted and the whitewall inserts fitted into the tyres, it was time to put the wheels together, a few dab's of 5 minute 2 part epoxy glue on the centre hubs and a spring clamp on each wheel had them fixed together ready to fix onto the axles.

 

 The engine was finally built up before it was fixed into the chassis, there's a few good photo's available on the internet, so detailing the engine was pretty easy, 

With the engine and gearbox now fixed into the chassis, the exhaust was fitted before the road wheels went on, you can make the wheels turn if you only glue the centre pin into the axles and don't actually glue to the wheel to the stub axle, but I have in the past had models roll off the workbench, and as it is a model and not a toy, the wheels were firmly fixed using 2 part 5 minute epoxy glue, the chrome centre caps still need to be fixed on.

 As I wanted the wheels to be perfectly lined up, so once the glue was applied, a metal set square was propped along the side of the wheel and tyre, this was done on all the wheels, luckily when all the wheels were fitted and dried up, all four touched the ground ...

  

 

 With the chassis now finished, it was time to paint and chrome foil the running boards, the boards were painted using Humbrol flat black acrylic, the chrome surround was replicated using chrome Bare Metal Foil, once those were finished, the body and chassis were fixed together using two part 5 minute epoxy glue and taped and clamped, and left to dry.

 

 

 

 Once the body & chassis was fixed, the front floorboard could be fitted, a little tricky, as the steering column had to be fitted at the same time, the steering column has to line up with a gearwheel that in theory could make the steering actually work.

Before I could get the body fitted, the windsheild frame had to be fitted into the body, the dashboard is molded as part as the windsheild frame, so with the frame painted using chrome Alclad, the dash part was covered using aluminium BMF, then the dials were detailed using Revell white enamel, once this was done, it was fitted into the body tub using clear 5 minute epoxy glue.

 

 With the front footboard fitted, it was now time to fit the rest of the body, a few dry runs to see the best way to fit all the parts together, the interior tub had to be fitted into the body before it could be fitted onto the chassis, once things were worked out, it was fitted using 5 minute clear epoxy glue, and held in place with Tamiya masking tape while things dried out.

 Once that had been left to dry, the radiator was fixed into place, the bonnet was popped into place to hold the radiator into place while things were left to dry.

Dashboard fixed into Place 

 The boot (Trunk) was next to get fitted, the parts for these are supplied as seperate parts, with a hinge so the boot can, in theory be opened, but the hinge is very delicate and there isn't any detail in the boot to see, so I left the hinge off and glued the two parts together, the rails were detailed using chrome BMF, and fixed to the body with 5 minute epoxy.

 The rear screen surround was also detailed with chrome BMF, and the glass was again fitted in using 5 minute clear epoxy glue, the roof was fixed into place, again using 5 minute clear epoxy glue.

 

 With most of the bodywork finished, it was time to start work on the rear lights and the front horns, the front horns were in real life looked like trumpets, and they were supplied in the kit with the front flat, so they needed drilling out and grinding to the shape of a cone, the rear lights were also incorrect and also needed drilling out, so they could be filled with clear resin dyed with red food dye to replicate the red rear light lenses.

  

 Front horn's, modified one on the right

 

 Rear light drilled out

 

 Rear lights drilled out, painted using chrome Alclad, then filled with clear resin mixed with red food dye

 

 Front horns and bumper fitted, both painted in chrome Alclad

 

 Running board's finished, the outer trim was done in chrome Alclad

 

 Bonnet finished, all chrome parts were done using Alclad chrome lacquer

 

 Rear lights fitted, Bumper and trunk fitted, again, all the chrome was done using Alclad chrome lacquer

 Now finished !